Surfing in England - A Guide: No.1 Devon
- thewhale
- May 14, 2016
- 13 min read
thewhale has spent a lot of time surfing the extensive shorelines of the British Isles and loves the rugged nature of English surfing. The mix of green pastures rolling down to the cold North Atlantic Ocean really gets the blood pumping. The fact that many think that surfing in Britain is a bit of a joke comes as a real surprise, as there are some bonafide waves going off for much of the year, and many are uncrowded if you are prepared to look into all the various nooks and crannies of the jagged coastline. One of the many plus points is that there are no dangerous sharks to contend with and the locals are generally a pretty friendly crew. The most important ingredient required for surfing in Britain is the dedication of doing a dawny during the mid-winter swell season; it is not for the feint of heart and so crowds dwindle to very few. That said, the spring and summer swells are a real joy with radiant sunshine and massive levels of stoke as the Brits make the most of their brief shot of Vitamin D. Furthermore, as surfing is reasonably youthful, as a pastime, amongst the masses in Britain there are a lot of beginners and few experts in the water so, if you are a half decent surfer then you can get lots of waves. One of the joys of summer surfing in Britain is that the sun rises at about 5am and it stays light until 10pm, so your surfing day is super long, and if you are there midweek it is pretty uncrowded.
Because the British Isles is a series of Islands you can usually get some kind of a wave on any given day if you are prepared to drive around between coasts and know what you are looking for. You should also be aware that the beaches and reefs around the British Isles have significant tidal shifts everyday, so you will need to get yourself a tide table at a local surf shop to help you surf at the opportune time. If you want more size on a good day, or for a ripple to become a larger ripple then, as a rule of thumb, you should be heading out on the incoming, pushing tide. Equally if it's too big then the opposite might be the go. Also, some waves will not even work on the high tide mark or might be too dangerous on the low tide mark. Read below for some basic insights or ask the locals if in doubt.
Here is a basic guide to some of the main breaks in Devon with a couple of little gems thrown in for good measure:
Devon
North Devon
This coastline has a wide range of options from beginner to expert and everything in between. It has mile long golden sandy beaches with board rentals and then rugged, rocky reefs that require some effort to get to. North Devon also has a thriving surf scene that has exploded in the last decade. Surf shops abound and webcams are in use at all the main spots. Check out http://www.eyeballhq.tv/ (see below); this used to be a service that just dealt with North Devon, but it has recently expanded with the help of Surfline to cover more of the South and South West coastline.

Heading North to South: If you come off Exmoor and leave Somerset behind you the first break of note you will come across is arguably one of the best, if least consistent, breaks in the United Kingdom.
Lynmouth
For 350 days of the year Lynmouth is a flat, grey and bleak place at the foot of a deep valley with some steep cliffs on either side. Lynmouth is known more amongst geographers as the sight of the 1952 Lynmouth Flood rather than a place that has waves. Many people even look at you as if your nuts when you explain that there is a wave here, but there sure is - on its day. Lynmouth breaks when the rest of the North Coast is heavily blown out (8ft+). It breaks over a shallow boulder reef and is not suitable for beginners learning to surf. There are waves on both sides of the river channel, with the left hand side, as you face the sea, being generally shallower and gnarlier than the right hand side. You can paddle out easily through the river/harbour, which will spit you out beyond the break. The take off is pretty easy, although faster than many UK takeoffs and the ride wraps beautifully down the reef. Lynmouth is a left. Legend has it that on big day the two waves either side of the river connect up to give you a long, long ride of between 150-300 metres!? Lynmouth never used to be crowded, but with the expansion of the surf scene in the UK and webcams etc. it can get very overcrowded indeed. A weekday, when most people are at work can still be pretty quiet though. This is generally a winter wave, so it's a pretty cold and uninviting place, but worth the effort. There are no surf shops, lifeguards or easy parking options etc. in the area so do not expect anything when you arrive.

Moving further South down the coast you will get to:
Combesgate
This sits at the Northern end of Woolacombe beach (although it is not connected) and is a beautiful little bay at the foot of a cliff. There is a sandy beach there at low tide, but it disappears on the high tide, so this is strictly a low to mid tide wave. Combesgate is where to head when everywhere else is a little too small as the wave jacks up a little more than others in the area. It's a good beach break and is usually less crowded than the other main beaches, especially in the summer months.
The road from Combesgate to Woolacombe, which is only a few hundred metres in length, allows camper vans to park up for free; it's a great place to park and sleep for a weekend, but if that's not your thing then there are loads of small hotels, campsites and B & Bs in the area.
Woolacombe Woolacombe is a beautiful stretch of golden sand that runs all the way to Putsborough. It's about a mile long and there is a booming surf scene here. It has surf bars, shops, cafe's, hotels and hostels, car parks and lots of sand. The main wave is at the North end of the beach and is a right hander, although as a beach break it serves up rights and lefts over a soft sandy bottom, which makes it perfect for all comers. In the UK crowds tend to thin out when a wave gets over about 4 foot, so on its day it can be good fun and not too overcrowded, but by contrast expect pea soup when it's between 1-3 foot. If you want an uncrowded experience head to the National Trust car park midway along and above the beach; this will mean that you can run down the dunes and into some uncrowded surf between Woolacombe and Putsborough.

Putsborough
This is where to go when it gets big on the main beaches. It is partially protected from the prevailing southwesterly winds by the cliffs on the south side and the surf wraps in quite nicely. Like Woolacombe you can surf it on any tide, but it can break over the rocks on the beach at high tide, so beware. There is a nice beach cafe above the break for a cup of hot chocolate and there is a big, expensive car park too, which you have to use. It breaks left and right and is an easy wave for all comers. There is no surf shop here and access is down narrow single track Devon country lanes, so expect to reverse quite a bit on a busy day!
The next break heading south from Putsborough is just the other side of Baggy Point (which has some great climbing slabs above the ocean).

Tucking in at Putsborough
Croyde
Croyde is considered to be one of England's premier waves. Low tide Croyde throws up its fair share of barrels and thewhale has seen some serious injuries go down here. Mid tide Croyde on a pushing tide can pack a decent punch and is great fun, and high tide Croyde is also good fun, but often more mellow. Despite the fact that many people come to learn to surf at this beach break, Croyde is actually a really solid wave with nice lefts and rights and plenty of room. The village itself is a picture postcard sort of place with thatched cottages and old pubs. It also has its own festival called Oceanfest in the summer. One of thewhale's favourite post UK surf pubs is The Thatch at Croyde, which serves hearty food and good pints; it even has a few rooms for rent above the pub. There are surf schools and shops in the main village. Parking is at either Downend Point (get there early to avoid paying!) or Baggy Point (National Trust).
Downend Point This could be claimed as a secret spot, but for the fact that you can see people surfing here as you drive around the point form Saunton Sands! It is a wave that tends to be surfed by the Uk's best surfers, requires you to walk down the point and it breaks over shallow rock reef, so unless you are serious and an expert stay at the beach breaks and leave this place to those in the know.
Saunton Sands
Saunton is a great spot for all comers. It is a super easy take off and the beach is a mile long, so despite heavy crowds, and adding in for good measure the over 4 foot UK rule of thumb, it is a lovely spot. It often has a silvery sheen to it as you pass the swell lines on your way round to/from Croyde. It is one of the most consistent waves in the area too. Unless you park above it on the road then you have to use the ever more expensive car park, but that makes the beach more accessible. There is a cafe, board rental and restaurants here as well as the commanding art deco Saunton Sands Hotel for those with deeper pockets. Behind the beach are the undulating dunes of Braunton Burrows and there is a golf course too. It is the favourite amongst Longboarders and there is a serious Longboarding fraternity here, who tend to pick up all the waves that break from the rocks to the beach. If you move along to the left, as you face the sea, then there are many more peaks, which may not be as perfect, but are great fun. It has lefts and rights like all beach breaks and is perfect for beginners, longboard and funboard riders. It can hold big swells too.

Saunton Silver
These are the main spots in the North Devon area, but if you head south and are a bit more inclined to study the form between Saunton and Bude, which is in North Cornwall then there are numerous spots for you to explore such as Hartland Point, Speaks Mills, Bucks Mills etc..Check conditions and be nice to the locals.
South Devon
In thewhale's humble opinion the South Devon coast is a more feral surfing experience. Whereas the North Devon coast is more accessible and has wide open, mile long beaches, South Devon is a road less travelled. The lanes are overgrown, the coast is rockier and wilder and the surfers are a hardy bunch. The surf options here are also seemingly fewer, although there are actually more options on offer if you are prepared to look down the end of country lanes. This stretch of coastline goes from the Jurassic Coast in East Devon to Plymouth, where the river Tamar marks the dividing line between Devon and Cornwall. Although you can get waves at places like Sidmouth, Exmouth, Torquay and Paignton, they are usually short range wind chop generated waves with no shape and little to write home about; that said thewhale has seen all of these spots have their day, so you never know...right place, right time etc..The focus of this guide will be the Dartmouth to Plymouth stretch, which is also sailing country. You could do worse things than sail this coast with a board in your stowage.
Lannacombe
Again, if you can find this spot and there is somewhere to leave your car, you might be stoked to find a lovely little wave in a lovely little cove along a beautiful stretch of the South West Coast path. It can get crowded when the Plymouth crew head here, but is often pretty empty midweek. The kelp beds and seals add to the natural beauty of this place too. It's a beachy, pebbly, rocky kind of set up but is pretty safe for the intermediate surfer who understands the sea; nothing here apart from a lovely old house, so come prepared.
Salcombe
This is a beautiful sailing town on an estuary. It has a great summer vibe and lots of trendy shops. When big South West winter storms hit there are waves in the estuary at The Bar and North Sands. For some apres surf fodder head to The Bake House Salcombe where the surfer owner serves up some freshly made tasty delicacies.
Bantham
'The Queen of the South', Bantham is a great wave and the most consistent in the area. This is where south coasters and holiday makers come to surf alongside feral, experienced surfers. It has a beach break with a rivermouth set up (it is the mouth of the famous river Avon) at one end, it also comes complete with a conveyer belt rip on the left that takes you out along the rocks with a short paddle into the lineup. The backdrop is Burgh Island, which has inspired the likes of local singer songwriter Ben Howard (click here to hear his Burgh Island ep), as well as a fair few Agatha Christie books (she was from nearby Torquay). You can even stay at the exclusive Burgh Island Hotel, which has amazing art deco interiors and wonderful black tie dinner dances. The hotel is often used in Agatha Christie dramatisations. The wave at Bantham can get heavy and holds solid sized swells with long lefts and rights, bowl sections and the odd barrel.

Bantham going off with Burgh Island in the background
Challaborough
This is right next to Bantham , but the other side of the sand bar that leads to Burgh Island. It works on slightly different conditions to Bantham, but is an okay wave.
Whitsand Beach (this is strictly speaking Cornwall as it sits just over the Tamar Bridge)
This is the Plymouth City offering to surfing. It is a 5 mile stretch of beach that offers plenty of peaks for all comers.
Wembury
Also in Plymouth; this is a walling lefthander that needs a big swell to make it work. Like everywhere it has its days, but watch out for city crowds.
Things to do in Devon when it's flat:
So, you have made the call to head to Devon for a holiday and it goes flat, don't worry there is plenty to do and you can cover a lot of ground quickly as the county of Devon is not huge; you're in England remember. Here are the highlights of Devon:
Outward Bound
Go sailing: Torquay, Dartmouth, Salcombe and Plymouth all have yacht clubs and a buzzing sailing scene. Whilst Dartmouth and Salcombe are the jewels of the South Hams Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, and are thriving, exclusive estuary towns with nice shops and massive house prices, the Torbay area is excellent for watersports, as the bay itself is a beautiful stretch of water. If you sail, windsurf, wakeboard, water ski or kayak in Torquay, you can hop around to various pubs with moorings like The Cary Arms. Torquay O a spa town for the rich and famous in the Victorian era, and I am sure if you are looking for an investment you would be wise to buy something here as it will boom again.
SUP, Sail or Kayak the River Dart: A beautiful river that has sleepy English villages all the way along it. A millennium poem by Alice Oswald about the river Dart has immortalized the river. There are some lovely pubs to stop at along the way.
Go hiking on Dartmoor: Dartmoor National Park is a rugged, stone circle strewn paradise, but beware of the weather; it can get nasty pretty quickly. There are many walks and it is the only place in England where you can free camp on the moor. It is very beautiful, and parts of it are very cut off.
Walk the Two Moors Way: This connects Exmoor and Dartmoor national parks and links the north and south coasts of Devon.
Go Climbing or Bouldering: Baggy Point above Croyde offers some beautiful rock slabs, as does Haytor on Dartmoor, there are climbs in Torquay too. Any climbing guide should list all of these. Exeter has a Clip and Climb climbing wall.
General
Stay at the Burgh Island Hotel or The Saunton Sands Hotel: Turn your surf holiday into an exclusive mini break. At Burgh Island you will feel as if you have stepped back into the 1920s with black tie dinner dances and art deco rooms. The Saunton Sands Hotel as great views of Saunton beach, indoor and outdoor pools etc...
Sample English Beer: There are pubs everywhere. Get a copy of the Good Pub Guide and explore!
Visit Farms and Farm Shops: Riverford Organic Farm is highly recommended. They have a shop in Totnes and the original farm is just outside the town, past the artsy Dartington Hall (there's also one on the Plymouth Road). If you decide to settle in the UK they do an organic veg box delivery scheme. They also have a restaurant etc.
Visit Totnes: This hippy town has a lovely vibe and a weekend market and some great food for both meat lovers and Veggies. Try Willow at the top of the main street for some wholesome veggie delights.
Visit the Museum of British Surfing in Braunton: Discover how surfing evolved in Britain.
Visit the Royal Albert Memorial Museum in Exeter for some culture: Great if you have kids or want ot learn about the local environ.
Visit Exeter Cathedral: The largest example of English Gothic vaulting in the UK.
Go to the Jurassic Coast: You might end up in Dorset if you head along this coast; Dorset people are weird (Lol!) Find a festival: The obvious thing to do is cross the border into Somerset and head to Glastonbury, but there are lots of little festivals going on in Devon. Oceanfest is on at Croyde in August. There's a jazz festival in Sidmouth and there is a great Christmas market in Totnes in the winter. Late July through August is regatta week in most of the South Devon sailing towns too.
Paignton Zoo: This is an excellent zoo that focuses on conservation.
Top Tip:
Tar Barrels: If you are looking for some real local flavor then head to Ottery St. Mary for the November 5th Tar Barrels event. This is when local pubs sponsor teams of locals in a competition to see who can hold a massive flaming beer barrel filled with tar for the longest period of time. Add in the fact that the town is rammed full of people so the barrels are passing close to your head and you have a crazy event; see if you can touch a barrel as it comes past without being hit by one of the locals for getting too close! You gotta love Devon, chap!
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