It's never too late......No. 1 Which Board, Waves and Wave Prediction Websites?
- thwhale
- May 15, 2016
- 3 min read
Kid: 'Hey man, a lotta guys your age are learning to surf. It's cool, there's nothing wrong with it.'
Utah: 'I'm 25!'
Kid: 'That's what I'm saying, it's never too late. Hope you stick with it. Surfing's a source, change your life, swear to God.'
And so goes the infamous Point Break scene. It's one of those scenes you watch and think that it's a cringeworthy, cheesy script, but it's not. That exchange is even more pertinent now that surfing has become one of the fastest growing sports on the planet. For good reason too; it's a healthy pastime that requires physical fitness, a knowledge of the ocean, a healthy respect for mother nature and her moods, and a chance to put yourself in, and work with, the sheer natural beauty of the sea.
Whether you are totally new to surfing, or have been doing it for a while, oblivious of all the various nuances of the sport, here is a guide that covers everything from board design to the creation of ocean swells. Although it is easy enough to grab a board and paddle out, you should be aware that a lot has gone before you in this sport. The technology behind board design, the evolution of surf predictions, the etiquette involved in catching waves, and a lot more besides. Whatever it may be, we should always pay our respects to the pioneers and trailblazers of this wonderful pastime (check out thewhale's, 'You should've been here yesterday' pieces to learn more about surf history).
Which Board?
When starting out, don't make the same mistake every kook makes - don't go and buy a shortboard that you see the pros using; you won't get any waves! Start long and move short as you get better. The reasons are simple; you will catch more waves, have more fun and learn faster on a bigger board. Here is a guide to which board is right for you:
If you want to know more about the different types of board you may be seeing in the water then check out the link below, which should help you distinguish between a shortboard, funboard, mal, fish, hybrid etc..
For even more detail here are some more links:
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Waves and Wave Prediction Websites
Once you have a vehicle all you need to do is get to a beach and ride some waves. In today's world of webcams and surf prediction websites like Magicseaweed, it is a lot easier to pick your spot and head down there for some guaranteed waves. But, if you want to know more about waves and how swells are generated then here you go:
For reasons of human ego this has become a much discussed and complex issue. So here are the reasons that it is has become complex, just out of interest:
1) Hawaiians measure from the back of a wave - so 4 ft to an Hawaiian is about 6ft to everyone else, who measure from the face of the wave (eg. pit to breaking crest).
2) Some people measure in Metres and some in Feet.
3) People love to exaggerate to make it sound heavier than it was.
4) Some people just have too much time on their hands!
So, as a rule of thumb, just be honest and go off the wave face, which you can estimate from your own height!
Whilst wave prediction websites and webcams make our lives much easier, you should also be aware that swells can drop off in a matter of hours, so if you check a webcam and drive for several hours you might find the conditions very different when you arrive; this is the main reason why you need to gather a little more information on the general situation before setting off. Of course, if you live on the beach then you just look at the ocean.
For the total novice you should understand the following: You are looking for a solid, long period (how many seconds there are between set waves 14-16 secs is very good) groundswell that ideally comes in at the right direction for your spot for maximum power (west facing beach wants west facing groundswell). You are then hoping for offshore winds (not too strong) to tidy up the face of the wave, hollow it out and allow for a clean, green take off and ride. Every spot has its day and its own optimum conditions so, speak to locals, read the Stormrider Guide or do some research online.
This is how Magicseaweed explain it:
Tried and trusted websites to use are:
Coming up in the next installment of It's never too late No. 2 will be tips on how to do the basics: Paddling and Popping Up on your board.
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